Ice Climbing In Mleta (Near Gudauri)

Mleta Waterfall is a good place for improving ice climbing qualifications.

Mleta Waterfall is an ideal place for those who wish to improve their qualifications and gain new experience.

The region is well-suited for relatively experienced alpinists, especially those who already have experience in ice climbing and walking in the snow.

Route

The region features three frozen waterfalls. Of these, two (the far-right and far-left ones) are relatively more challenging (WI5) due to their steeper, more vertical sections. The middle waterfall is comparatively easier (WI4), characterized by more moderate sections and more ledges in the upper part.

Before starting to climb from the base of the waterfall, be sure to check its thickness carefully to ensure proper protection. If you're not confident in the quality of the ice, it is strongly advised not to climb from the base.

It is also possible to set up top-rope protection. To do this, you should approach the waterfalls from the left side. Once you begin the couloir, follow the left slope. Along the way, you will encounter a small river, and you must move left to avoid it (following the riverbed is unsafe). Afterward, bypass a small hill from which you will begin your approach to the right side.

You will quickly encounter the first waterfall, and the left side (from the front view, the right side) has two well-placed belay stations. To reach these stations, you must descend about 7-8 meters from a large tree (choose a reliable tree for safety).

The middle waterfall has no built belay station, so you will need to place your own protection as you ascend.

The far-left waterfall (from the base, the rightmost one) has a belay station on the right side. You will also need to descend a large tree to reach this station.

For all waterfalls, ensure that you are cautious with protection placement and always assess the ice conditions carefully before climbing.

How to get there

The region is located between the village of Mleta and Gudauri. To reach it, you need to head from the village of Mleta towards Gudauri. After the serpentine road begins, take the first turn on the left (opposite direction from the Gudauri-bound road). From there, follow a 2.5 km dirt road (it is necessary to have winter tires). After 2.5 kilometers, you will see a parking area on the left, and on the right, you will find three frozen waterfalls. (For better visibility, please refer to the map.)

Here, you leave your car and head towards the waterfalls along the slope. The waterfalls (left 2 and right 1) are separated by a ridge, which can only be crossed by an alternate route. Therefore, it is important to determine the correct direction from the start. To reach the left waterfalls, follow the left slope of the ridge, which will take you into a couloir-like area, where a small river runs through the middle, and you will quickly reach the waterfalls. To reach the right waterfall, follow the right slope of the ridge or walk along the upper part of the ridge itself. (For better visibility, please refer to the image of the region.)

Best time to visit

The waterfall begins to freeze after mid-December, but the best time for climbing is from the beginning of February to the first third of March.