Asatiani Summit From South

D M1 5A 200M (4A; RUSS)

Approach: From the entrance of the Javakhishvili couloir, proceed straight ahead (almost to the end of the cirque), where you will find the Cameroun–Asatiani couloir on your left. Ascend the snow-filled couloir (~400 m) along the right side up to the saddle.

Route

Pitch Breakdown:

  1. Pitch 1 (P1 / R1 - 40 m | Grade IV | 70°): From the saddle, climb up the steep, cracked wall on the right (Grade IV). Negotiate simple rock steps and cracks to reach a piton belay station on a small ledge.
  2. Pitch 2 (P2 / R2 - 40 m | Grade III | 60°): Traverse 2–3 m right into a wide, snow-and-scree chimney ("Fireplace"). Climb 40 m up the couloir to reach a notch/saddle. Set up the belay station at the base of the wall.
  3. Pitch 3 (P3 / R3 - 30 m | Grade IV | 70°): From the notch, bear left into a narrow, overhanging chimney (30 m). Climb through the chimney onto a long, narrow ledge to find a piton station.
  4. Pitch 4 (P4 / R4 - 20 m | Grade II | 10–20°): Traverse 20 m to the right along the platform/ledge to reach the base of an open corner/chimney.
  5. Pitch 5 (P5 / R5 - 30 m | Grade III | 50°): Climb the open corner/chimney (30 m) to top out onto the upper ridge, then follow the loose ridge line directly to the summit.


Descent & Duration:

  1. Descent: Downclimb/abseil via the same route.
  2. Duration: 8–9 hours.