Chelidze: Djavaxishvili sumit from north

D 300M 5A (4B RUS)

The Chelidze Route is one of the most classic and engaging technical lines in the Chaukhi Massif, perfectly suited for both intermediate and advanced climbers.

Approach:

From Chaukhi Base Camp (CAMP-1), head southeast following the grassy slope towards Mount Javakhishvili. As the grass gives way to scree and broken rock, follow the path up to a saddle. You will encounter a 30-meter wall which can either be climbed directly or bypassed on the right via a wide couloir/chimney. Reach the saddle near the large boulder where the technical wall climbing begins.

Route

Pitch Description:

Pitch 1 (50 m / 5a): The wall starts with a small cleft opening into a wide inside corner (French 5a / Grade V). Follow the logical crack system passing a jammed block ("stone cork") in a small chimney. Traverse gently to the left into the internal corner to reach a station on a broken rock platform.
Pitch 2 (50 m / 5c/+): Continue climbing up slightly steeper and more technical terrain (French 5c/+). Fixed anchors/pitons are present on this pitch. Climb to a medium-sized ledge where the belay station is located.
Pitch 3 (50 m): At the station, locate a fixed cord/rope to downclimb 4–5 meters and execute a short pendulum/traverse to reach a groove/gully on the left. Follow the groove (or the middle, easiest of three chimneys), placing medium-to-large cams/nuts for protection, and top out onto a large platform.
Pitch 4 (50 m): From the platform, climb straight up the clear crack in the wall until gaining a medium-sized ledge.
Pitch 5 (50 m): Continue along a crack slanting to the left until reaching a large, broken stone platform.

Upper Section & Summit:

From the large platform, move simultaneously across the snow- and stone-covered ledges to intersect the final pitch of the Javakhishvili Classic (3A) route. Follow the remaining classic chimney/ridge line directly to the summit.

Descent: Via Javakhishvili 3A route.
Duration: 8–9 hours total (round trip from camp).