Djavaxishhvili summit, "Iliauni" route

TD+/ED (5A RUS)

In the morning, the route is in the sun, so it is pleasant to climb, both in summer and in winter.

It will take you 2.5-3.0 hours to reach the base of the route from the first camp.

1.0-1.5 hours from the second camp.

The average time from the base of the route to the top is 4-6 hours. In the morning, the route is in the sun, so it is pleasant to climb, both in summer and in winter.

It will take you 2.5-3.0 hours to reach the base of the route from the first camp.

1.0-1.5 hours from the second camp.

The average time from the base of the route to the top is 4-6 hours.

Route

The route starts on the left of Leonidze-Javakhishvili culuar. We go up the steep slope to the bottom of the wall, we find a crack on the left side. This is where the route starts.

P0 - we start climbing in a wide crack (for protection, use large-sized cams), we pass on a narrow taro and make protection on the chem. we continue climbing to the right. We go through a 4-5 meter wall to the big taro, go to the right and make a station on the big rock, at the foot of the big fireplace.

P1 - We start climbing into the fireplace, there are many cracks on the right and left walls of the fireplace to make protection. Above the fireplace is a ceiling formed by the fall of large stones. On the left side, we find a narrow passage and go to the shelf. There is a chemical station near the gas station.

P1.5 - walking simultaneously to the left of the station, we follow the shelf, climb a 5m high simple wall and find the base of the big wall on the existing taro.

P2- we follow the groove in the middle of the big wall (the biggest groove), we follow the groove, on the right side we find a shelf and 4m above the shelf we find 2 palos on which we set up a station.

P3 - We continue to climb in the groove until we come to a green wall with broken, broken rock. There are many narrow grooves on the wall. We continue to climb in the middle of the wall and find a narrow shelf where we make a station (making a station higher than this is not recommended).

P4 - We continue to climb straight until we get to a large shelf below a large fireplace. We make a station at the foot of the fireplace.

P5- We continue to climb the large chimney until we pass another large taro. From here we start walking simultaneously.

TOP - from the shelf we continue to climb at the same time, on easy terrain. We go to the foot of the peak. We pass the peak on a small shelf from the west side (go to the left) and find a fireplace. As soon as we leave the fireplace, we find ourselves at the top.

The average time from the base of the route to the top is 4-6 hours.

Best time to visit

The best time for the route is summer. At this time, the least precipitation falls, and the temperature is the highest (from 12 to 0 degrees), but you can go on the route in winter. Note: There is much more snow on the couloir in winter and avalanches are frequent. Temperature range from -15 to -25 degrees.

Information

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