JAVAKHISHVILI SUMMIT FROM NORTH (Pridon Jokhadze Route)

(5-B; UIAA)

Approach: From Chaukhi Camp (CAMP-1), head southeast toward the cirque. From the plateau above the memorial cross (before starting the ascent into the cirque itself), turn left toward the base of the route. Ascend the partially grassy, stepped slope (moving simultaneously tied-in if necessary) to a small ledge/platform, where the wall begins.

Route

Pitch Breakdown:

  1. Pitch 1 (R1 - 40 m | Grade V | 70°): From the platform, climb up the large chimney/crack running up the left side of the wall to a saddle/notch. Set up a piton belay station.
  2. Pitch 2 (R2 - 40 m | Grade V | 70°): Continue up the left chimney to the base of an overhang/cornice. Set a station on pitons/nuts (3 m fixed rope is at the base).
  3. Pitch 3 (R3 - 35–40 m | Grade VI | 80° - Crux): Traverse right across the cleft to a small ledge, cross it (5–10 m), and overcome the steep overhang/cornice section to the base of the couloir.
  4. Pitch 4 (R4 - 50 m | Grade IV | 60°): Climb the 10–15 m rock slab and continue up to a large ledge to set a station.
  5. Pitch 5 (R5 - 50 m | Grade V | 60°): Follow the ridge section for 80 m toward the 5 m red wall crux at the end of the ridge segment.
  6. Pitch 6 (R6 - 60 m | Grade IV | 60°): Cross 30–40 m over detached wall/pillar sections (stepping/jumping gaps) and downclimb 10 m to a saddle.
  7. Pitch 7 (R7 - 50 m | Grade V | 60–70°): Ascend toward the large boulder, contour around its right side, gain the face, and return to a small ledge.
  8. Pitch 8 (R8 - 50 m | Grade V | 60°): Climb the crack passing the boulder to reach the belay station.
  9. Pitch 9 (R9 - 40 m | Grade V | 70–80°): Climb gently right along the crack to the base of the overhang where multiple pitons are fixed.
  10. Pitch 10 (R10 - 40 m | Grade V | 80°): Turn the overhang on the right, climb the rock pillar/step, and bear left onto a ledge.
  11. Pitch 11 (R11 - 40 m | Grade V | 80°): Continue along the ledge toward the saddle near the big boulder at the wall's base.
  12. Pitch 12 (R12 - 30 m | Grade V | 80–90°): Climb a steep 30 m slab/wall section to reach the large platform.
  13. Pitch 13 (R13 - 20 m | Grade IV | 45°): Cross the low-angle, easy platform section.
  14. Pitch 14 / Summit Ridge (R14 - 55 m | Grade V | 70–80°): Climb the final wall/chimney section onto the ridge, then follow the easy ridge (200–300 m) directly to the summit of Javakhishvili Peak.


Duration: 12–14 hours (round trip)

Descent: Javakhishvili Classic 3A Route