JAVAKHISHVILI SUMMIT FROM NORTH (SEREBRIAKOV Route)

(5-A; UIAA)

Approach:

From Chaukhi Camp (CAMP-1), head southeast up the grassy hill and traverse for 100 m to reach a platform. Continue for 120 m, pass the large boulder, and ascend a sloping couloir for 50 m to reach a ledge at the base of the wall.

Route

Pitch Breakdown:

  1. Pitch 1 (R1 - 50 m | Grade III | 40–50°): From the starting platform, climb directly up the rock slab toward the overhang on the left side. Pass the overhang at its easiest point (50 m) to reach the base of a chimney.
  2. Pitch 2 (R2 - 50 m | Grade V | 80°): Climb 20 m up the chimney to where it widens, then top out onto a ledge. Cross the 5–6 m broken/scree ledge, then climb along the right side of the wall for 50 m to reach the next platform.
  3. Pitch 3 (R3 - 40 m | Grade V | 70°): Make a 50 m traverse to the right. From the narrow rock step, bear left for 20 m toward the gentle ridge section, enter a wide chimney, and exit onto a ledge (20 m).
  4. Pitch 4 (R4 - 50 m | Grade V | 60–70°): Walk 100 m across the scree/talus slope, then make a 50 m traverse to the left to reach the platform.
  5. Pitch 5 (R5 - 50 m | Grade IV | 60°): Cross the ridge via an easier rock wall section ("Firewall") and follow the ridge for 100 m directly to the summit.


Descent & Duration:

  1. Descent: Descend from Javakhishvili Peak via the clasic (3A) route.
  2. Duration: 9–10 hours.