Mt. Mkinvartsveri 'Classic' (2A UIAA)

Mountain Massive - Myinvartsveri (Kazegi)

Mount Kazbegi - is a dormant stratovolcano and one of the major mountains of the Caucasus located on the border of Georgia's Kazbegi District and Russian Republic of North Ossetia.

It is the secend highest peak in Georgia (after Mount Shkhara) and the seventh-highest summit in the Caucasus Mountains. By the originit is extinct volcano, therfore its slopes are not steep. Mkinvartsveri is also most popular tourist summit in Geprgia. Ascension to it is not difficalt technically. Existence of Bethlemi Hut Hotel (Formit meteorological station) at the foot of the glacir makes ascension even easier and accessidle for many ameteur mountain climbers. That's Way the interet to it in the tourist circles decomes more vivid day by day. summit cam be conquerd by several routes. Below you can find the most classical and safest option. There are two more beautiful and simple summit in the vicinity of Mkinvartsveri Ortsveri and Spartaki.

Mount Kazbek was first climbed in 1868 by an expedition of English and French mountaineers in the Alpine Club, but has long held cultural and historical significance to the local people.

Best time to climb

The best time to climb, is mid July to mid September. In any case, you need to get acquainted with the weather before the start of your adventure.

How to get there

All routes to the mountain Mkinvartsveri(Kazbegi) start from the meteostation (Betlemi hut), A detailed description of the approach, see the section of tracks.

Route - Mt. Mkinvartsveri 'Classic' (2A UIAA)

The way to Bethlemi Hut Brgins at the neck adjacent ot Gergeti Sameba and follows Sabertse Ridge, after which it crosses Chkheri River. We shall position ourselves to the right of Gergeti Glacire and follow the morines. We crooss the and ascend to the hill, at ehich Bethlemi Hut - former meteorological station - is located

The route to Mkinvartsveri begins at Bethlemi Hut; we head towards east, pass Tetri Jvari(Whith cross), cross the stone-covered plateau and reach Shavi Jvari (bleck cross). From Bethlemi Hut it takes about 1.5-2 hours. At this  place it is recommended to rope to each other!

From Shavi jvari we turn to the left (sutheas), in order to avoid the terat of stone fall from "Khmaura" slopes impending on the right side. Here we get to the glacer, which gradually turns ti the right (north-west), follow it and in about 2-3 hours get to Maili Plateau.

From Maili Plateau we ture to the east and traversing medium steepness slope get to the Mkinvartsveri sabble(2-3 hours fom plateau)(cracks). we pass big bergschrund and get to the ice slope heading towards the summit (inclination - 20-30 degrewws). We followthe left edge and the make belaying at the rocky point. Passing snow-ice doom we get to the dummit.


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