Mt. Tetnuldi clasic route
VIA SOUTHWETERN RIDGE PD M2 1000M (2A RUSS)
Route
- (a) From Adishi Village by the grassy slopes we head to the north. In 3-4
hours we reach moraines, bypass them from the left and in 1-2 hours we
get to the first overnight stop: CAMP-1 3013 m. It is very convenient camping
place: grassy place on a hill, with the spring at its foot. Here a) and b) routes
merge. - (b) From Ughviri Pass we turn to the west (do not continue to Ushguli). It
is also possible to get to the Hut HUT-1 2786 m. by car. Trip from Mestia to the
Hut by car takes 2 hours. It is 5-6 hours walking from Ughviri Pass. From the
Hut we continue by the horse-riding path and in 1 hour reach CAMP-1 3013 m.
It is recommended to stay overnight here.
From CAMP-1 3013 m. we head to the northwest, go by moraine and reach the simple snow couloir (inclination – 2025 degrees). We pass the couloir and step on the ridge. There are several overnight stop points at the ridge; this place is called Amarati Nest (3400 m.). It is the 2 hours walking CAMP-2 3715 m.
At the snow slopes of the medium complexity we try to avoid the rocks to the extent possible, or climb over the simple rocks, get to the snow slope, which we partly traverse and get to the upper plateau of Kasebi Glacier, at the edge of which we find the overnight stop CAMP-2 3715 m. (3-4 hours walking from Amarati Nest).
From CAMP-2 3715 m. we head towards northwest and cross the upper plateau of Kasebi Glacier. From its extreme left edge we ascend to the snow cornise. We continue along snow-ice cornise and get to the ridge. At the beginning of the ridge there is the cozy CAMP-3 4293 m. which can be used as a reserve overnight stop place.
It takes 5-6 hours of walking to get here from CAMP-2 3715 m.