Ortsveri classic (2A UIAA)

Mountain Massive - Ortsveri

Ortsveri is one of the most beatiful simits of Georgia. By the originit is extinct volcano, therfore its slopes are not steep. Ascension to it is not difficalt technically but are most tecnical routes. Existence of "Bethlemi Hut" (Hotel & Camping)  (Formit meteorological station) at the foot of the glacir makes ascension even easier and accessidle for many ameteur mountain climbers. That's Way the interet to it in the tourist circles decomes more vivid day by day. summit cam be conquerd by several routes.

Ortsveri is a mountain standing in the shadow of its much higher neigbour, Mt Kazbek. Being almost 800 m lower than Kazbek, it seems not an obvious climbing goal. However. Ortsveri is frequenly visited as acclimatization climb by climbers who want to climb Kazbek.

The bedrock is volcanic (mostly Trachyte to Andesite) and the ridge of the Ortsveri is the remnant of the flank of a large volcano, of which the top was situated around the current cone of the Kazbek. The Gergeti valley -and glacier- nowadays seperate the two mountains.

The Starting town of Kazbek can be reached easily from Tbilisi following the Georgian Military Highway. There is a Taxi-bus service between Tbilisi and Kazbegi. Kazbegi has a good Hotel and many families who rent rooms.

Best time to climb

.The best time to climb, is mid July to mid September. In any case, you need to get acquainted with the weather before the start of your adventure.

How to get there

All routes to the mountain Ortsveri start from the meteostation (Betlemi hut), A detailed description of the approach, see the section of tracks.

On map you can see Ortsveri 2A route.

Route - Ortsveri classic (2A UIAA)

From the town of Kazbegi, down in the valley, a well marked trail leads up to the Trinity curch and beyond in the direction of the hut "Meteostation", a former Sovjet meteorological observation station. Folow the trail to the front of the glacier. Next, trek the glacier and cross it diagonally (direction WNW) to the foot of the Kazbek. This direction will lead you between two large crevasse fields. However, at this low altitude most crevasses are easily spotted and should pose no problems. At the south foot of the Kazbek, you can see the hut lying above you overlooking the glacier. There is a trail from the glacier to the hut that starts directly below it. For details concerning the hut look below. From there you can start your climb following the glacier to the lower Maili Plateau. You can traverse the Glacier to the foot of Ortsveri at more than one point, depending on the degree of snow covering and the time of the day (severe rockfall during daylight, so stay away from the cliffs after sunrise! esspecially the sun facing ridges).


Incorrect comments or comments containing obscene language will be deleted.

No Coments
Go Back All Articles