SOUTH USHBA: BY SOUTHEASTERN COUNTERFORT. (Gabrieli Route)

TD+ 1600m 6C+ 4 Day (5-B; UIAA)

First ascent 1937

Route

SOUTH USHBA: BY SOUTHEASTERN COUNTERFORT. (GABRIEL) (5-B; UIAA) From the church of abandoned Guli Village we head towards the farms, then by grassy slope we follow the left bank of Gulitskali River, in 2-3 hours cross the river and get to the overnight base at the foot of moraine. CAMP-1

From CAMP-1 2900 m. we go to moraine and enter into the western snow couloir (danger of stone fall). We do not follow couloir to the end - in 300-400 m we turn to the right and get to the stony platform, from which we traverse to the east, before we reach the ridge (reserve overnight stop). We follow the ridge towards the summit and get to the board (danger of stone fall). From here we turn to the left by 20-25 degrees and enter the snow-rock couloir, which is divided into the terraces with the simple vertical walls (hard- 4a) (danger of stone fall). The couloir leads us to the slope, where we can ob- serve the remainders of old tent (reserve overnight stop). From here we fol- low the ridge to the north and get to the bulwark of 50 m height (hard - 4b). CAMP-2 4180 m. is on the top of this bulwark. (Photo 2, Photo 4).

From CAMP-2 4180 m. in the direction of summit, in 30 meters the vertical wall of 50 meters height stands (hard 5b) (Fig. 3). On the top of the wall we get to little platform and turning to the left by 20-25 degrees enter the snow-rock couloir (Inclination 60-70 degrees), from which, passing the little saddle, we get to the ridge. 400-500 meters long ridge (hard 3A) leads us to the summit. The ridge is divided into the terraces, at one of which we can observe the memorial plate.